Italian magic

The Amalfi Coast is everything I love about Italy. The dramatic coastline, crystal clear water, passionate people (here is where talking with your hands was born), ancient ruins, simply delicious food and limoncello.

Me at Anacapri

Heading south from Rome, we skirt around Naples – home to pizza, the mafia and drivers with a death wish. Although, the more I see this chaotic, crazy driving that seems sure to end in disaster, the more I am convinced there is actually some sort of method to the absolute madness – you just have to be born in Italy to be in on the secret. We learn a little sign that may indicate a real member of the mafia is around – look for the missing top on the left hand trigger finger – then slowly back away.

Pick your position

We arrive in Pompeii, the ancient city that was frozen in time when Mt Vesuvius, which is still active and has thousands living and working on the fertile land at its base, erupted thousands of years ago. I am surprised to see greenery among the ruins and we welcome a light breeze that keeps the heat from becoming overwhelming. Our guide takes us along roads, built with complete drainage systems, through bath houses which had hot and cold running water and even into a brothel with pictures on the wall to allow customers to choose their preferred style - the Romans had it all sorted. When archaeologists discovered gaps in the buried city, they filled them with plaster – many turned out to be perfectly formed human shapes, complete with the look of surprise that was on their face as they were immortalised in searing hot lava.

Sorrento is our destination for the two nights and across the harbour down below, Mt Vesuvius still looms in the distance. Lemons and tomatoes are everywhere down here and we taste some Limoncello and homemade chocolates before a four course feast of bruschetta, zucchini pasta, fish with fresh chopped tomato and tiramisu – finished with a Limoncello of course J





Inside the Blue Grotto

Next day is Capri. We cruise out and stop at the famous Blue Grotto where we are loaded into small boats of 4 people and told to lie down and close our eyes while we pass through the 2 x 2m hole in the cliff face into a cave filled with electric blue water that is absolutely dazzling – it’s impossible to capture its full effect in a photo, but I tried! Back on board we sail past the Green Grotto – beautifully coloured water, but not a patch on the Blue Grotto. Arriving at Marina Piccolo, we jump off and after a delicious fresh buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil sandwich,  catch the bus first up to the town of Capri, then another bus up to the top – Anacapri. The road is extremely narrow and winding and miraculously two busses can pass each other, although how they do it is beyond me. We are standing on the bus and suddenly the houses end and we are staring down a sheer cliff face to the water, with only a tiny road barrier between us and thehuge drop. If my heart hadn’t been racing so fast, I might have been able to enjoy the spectacular views! Luckily, we arrive safely, walk through Anacapri and find a spot to capture the scene on camera – spectacular. It’s very hot so time for a relaxing swim in the beautiful water - until I discover that jellyfish are quite common there and retreat to the safety of my sun lounge. On the way back we pass under a natural arch in a rock, where it is good luck for two lovers to kiss

Kissing arch

The spectacular Amalfi Coast road was saved for the final day. We stop just before Positano to snap some photos of this gorgeous village and stock up from the fruit stand which also sold packets of rice mixed up with herbs - ready to make risotto, with cooking instructions in English. I thought I would take a chance and it seems even I can make delicious risotto when armed with the right packet mix – zucchini was a success, Limoncello still to be attempted.

First stop for the day is the actual village of Amalfi, with its impressive Duomo and a fountain with the water coming out of a lady’s breasts. We take a boat cruise along the coast to admire the homes and hotels that look tiny from the road, but impressive once you see how they climb down the cliffs, down to the tiny beaches squeezed in between the water and the rock. We head to a small family owned bakery where I have the most delicious lemon custard filled donut and as I am thanking the charming older man that owns it, I notice that the top part of his trigger finger is missing.



View from Ravello

Last stop is Ravello, a gorgeous place with sweeping views from either side, lush villas and the best eggplant parmigiana I have ever had. This one has been put back on my to do list, the beautiful gardens and views from the villas need more time to be explored – and I do need to make sure that the eggplant parmigiana wasn’t too good to be true………..I’ll be back soon Amalfi Coast

G is for Gyros, Greek salad, Greek gods and God I love my life!



Oia, Santorini

I was actually excited getting on the plane in Rome, Europe is becoming so familiar to me that I was really looking forward to landing in Athens – somewhere new to explore! Despite being warned about the high crime rate on the metro, the large amount of junkies found around the hostel and my worried parents making sure I wasn’t going to be injured in a violent protest, it was impressive to emerge into central Athens and look up to the Acropolis looming over the city. 12 hours later and a 4.30am wake up call, we were at the port having the first of many classic Greek breakfasts – spinach and feta pie with a coffee frappe. Just a few things to be careful of………..make sure to drink bottled water and you are not allowed to throw anything into the toilet……..including toilet paper. Welcome in Greece!



Fira - Santorini

6 hours later and Mykonos was straight ahead – I was disappointed with the view – where were all the white and blue buildings crowded along the cliffs? There was only a few square, white buildings dotted along the sparse, rocky landscape. Disappointment forgotten as we arrived at Paradise Beach, bars and restaurants all along the beach, straw umbrellas, deck chairs, cocktail waitresses, beautiful clear water and a pizza oven manned by Ari from Naples. Cheese saganaki and lamb souvlaki under a canopy of pink flowers, cocktails next to a window open over the bay and then shots, cocktails and dancing before embracing Greek culture and jumping the taxi queue and speeding away to shouts of abuse ha ha ha. Perfect day relaxing on the beach, chowing down on gyros, greek salad and proper pizza and then a cocktail on the beach bar lounge, watching the full moon sparkle over the ocean.



Cocktails on the private beach

Paros was next on the list and again, where are all the blue and white buildings?!?! We headed out to a private beach for a greek feast, some plate smashing and zorba dancing. Quite a task when getting dragged around, trying to hold my dress down against the wind and avoid slipping on all the shards of smashed plates! But so much fun!








Lunch on the Paros boat cruise

Mickey, me and Captain Antonio

The next day was magic. We boarded a sail boat, manned by the magnificent Captain Antonio and sailed around to Antiparos in the bluest, clearest water I have ever seen. Apparently it is traditional for the guide to join the captain for a vodka shot at 10am, so I couldn’t say no – and then every time the real guide announced over the speaker there was a telephone call for me it really meant that there was a new type of home brewed spirit for me to try J We ate chargrilled octopus for lunch that had been freshly caught that morning and hanging up on the side of the boat on our cruise out, washed down with homemade Ouzo and then swimming under caves and arches

Oia, Santorini

Santorini was next on the list and this was looking more like it. Masses of white houses piled up on the cliffs and our view down to the harbour and over to the volcano was magnificent. The sunset really is the most beautiful I have ever seen, all 4 nights I was there was a perfect ball of red dropping into the ocean and washing the sky shades of orange and pink. We were driven around by Stavros, a lovely and hilarious local, who loved to get on the microphone and to use greek food as a metaphor for life! We visited Perissa, a black beach that turns to one huge (and slippery) rock shelf after around 1 metre of fine black pebbles. Much better to lie on the sun lounges, under the straw umbrella and press the buzzer when I want another frappe, omelette or greek salad to be brought over ;-) We went to the Monastery of the Prophet Elijah, with 360 degree views of the whole island and to Santo Wines that has tasty white and desert wine, million dollar views over the ocean and is THE place to get married. The awesome red beach, which involved a sketchy hike (in thongs), where I think it was very lucky that nobody slipped and broke something, but the reward of perfectly clear, refreshing water and a mermaid rock to bask in the sun on made it all worth it

Oia, Santorini

Then we discovered Oia. THIS is where all the iconic blue and white building photographs are taken! I ran around for hours in delight, snapping hundreds of photos and so excited to be in the exact place that I had dreamed about a million years ago, staring at the photo pinned on my “wish we (I miss you Michelle!) were here” wall at work. It is truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen and I fully intend to go back one day and stay in one of the cliff side hotels with the infinity pools overlooking the ocean.

Perissa, black beach, Santorini

Door to?



It was so sad to leave Santorini, but I was pleasantly surprised by Ios – the Far Out Village is beautiful, a perfect blue pool from which you can see the ocean and consistently sensational food such as chicken risotto and grilled fish from the very reasonably priced restaurant. This is where I spent my entire second day, after the legendary pub crawl of the first night. Ios is famous for its nightlife and it didn’t disappoint – the Fun Pub had giant jenga and a pool competition, Flames bar had hands in the air dancing with “snow” falling, Rehab had a male strip show with boys picked out from the beach who decided to get it ALL off and entertained us with some quite talented pole dancing, Slammers let you put on a helmet and get slammed over the head with a hammer, milk crate or pole while you drink a tequila slammer and Orange bar had shots that tasted exactly like the chocolate bars they were named after and played all my favourite grungy and 70’s music. I didn’t quite make it to sunrise but I tried hard!

Far Out Village, Ios



Now back to reality and work……..oh wait, not before 3 days on our Italian Adventure to the Amalfi Coast…………you can hate me, it’s ok J

Go East, go to hell diet, go and die liver, go to picture perfect paradise

Budapest from the Citadel

Day 1 and I was already asking myself WHY have I decided to come on a TRAINING TRIP as a freebie?! WHY?? I had already done the compulsory heap of study about everything Eastern European and now I was about to deal with having to spiel up on the microphone 3 or 4 times everyday about anything from the group’s itinerary for Krakow to the history of the Balkan Wars (brain fry I tell you) and the dreaded “fact finding” in each city we would visit – prices, opening times, public transport etc etc - which made me want to scream at times – especially when dealing with a hangover from a hangover and 6 other strong personalities all existing in constant close proximity and no such thing as alone time

So why? The GOOD TIMES! Definitely made up for the above. Training trip is a time for all the suppliers to impress the new guides and for us to research all the products we sell to passengers (read LOTS of free stuff!). In Krakow we were met in front of St Mary’s Basilica in the Old Town Square by a representative from the nightclub we take groups to, show to a VIP room and encouraged to sample as many different types of exceptional Polish vodka as we dared. Certainly made the bike tour around the city the next morning intersting!

Slovenia

In the Polish mountain village of Zakopane we were taken high up into the Tatra mountains in a cable car where we could see over the other side to Slovakia, where the next day a new supplier showed the group just how much fun it was to power through the countryside in an old tank, formerly used by the Yugoslav army

Relaxing in the thermal baths in Budapest where the water is the temperature of the most perfect bath you have ever had, steam rises from the surface and you can get massages or have a super hot sauna was definitely a highlight

White water rafting in Slovenia

Driving into the Austrian countryside just outside of Salzburg to a Schnapps farm and watching the sunset over the Bavarian Alps (Germany is only a few km’s away), feasting on ribs and sampling many different schnapps (this is purely for research purposes obviously), then all of us dancing in the aisle of the coach with the music pumping the whole way home

 

SLOVENIA. This country is BEAUTIFUL. We stayed in Bled, a 10 minute walk down to the lake with the island and church in the middle (google it, its stunning) and went on a full day adventure through the nearby national park – masses of snow up the top, then the bluest, clearest lakes and rivers I have ever seen – and I went white water rafting, I was terrified but it was brilliant

Croatia - Plitvice National Park

Then into Croatia – the Plitvice National Park was also stunning – waterfalls and green/blue lakes all through – so peaceful and naturally beautiful. Finishing up with the most delicious meal (black cuttlefish risotto) while watching the sunset on the waterfront on the island of Pag was the perfect end to a crazy two weeks

GO EAST!

The food of London



Red velvet cupcake from the Southbank food markets



My short stay in London has come to an end, I have packed up my life into a suitcase once again, shipped two (very full - how did I manage to accumulate SO much stuff in 1 year!?) cartons home and I couldn't be happier.

Poster warning of injury on the tube




London didn't win me over. The tube - is it really necessary to push people out the way or risk having your arm crushed in a closing door when there will be another train in ONE MINUTE??? Rush hour just seems to make people lose their decency - a good friend of mine told me that one morning an elderly lady was getting out of her seat when the train movement made her fall. My friend watched in horror as 5 people scrambled for the elderly lady's seat, not one of them stopping to help her up or ask if she was OK. My friend actually asked these peole out loud what was was wrong with them, only to be met with blank stares.






Wicked at the Apollo Theatre

The London slang makes me cringe - INNIT just sums it up - learn to speak properly people, you just sound stupid.  I will not miss the crowds everywhere, ALL THE TIME. I will not miss the rare sunshine or the morgue like environment of the office where I spent long, uninspiring days.




Victoria & Albert Museum

I WILL miss seeing my lovley friends regularly, the local pub trivia every Tuesday, being able to go and see a theatre show or the ballet any night of the week, the fact that all the museum's are free and large glasses of wine (beware, 3 of these is a whole bottle!).

Singin in the Rain at the Palace Theatre

I will also miss the outstanding variety of fresh, tasty ready meals at Sainsbury's, the Friday lunchtime food markets at Southbank and the following amazing eateries that I have discovered or been introduced to over the past 3 months:

Dehesa in Soho (25 Ganton Street W1F 9BP) – Spanish tapas, get the pork belly and tortilla. The chargrilled bread is also delicious! The cheapest red wine by the glass (£4 for 175ml – not cheap but cheapest there) is also fantastic.

Cha Cha Moon in Soho (21 Ganton Street W1F 9BN) – Asian, they do a £10 starter & main lunch deal from 2-5pm – get the chicken gyoza (grilled dumplings) and Szechuan chicken soup or Sinapore noodles mmmmmmmmmmm

Dim T – you can print 2-4-1 main course vouchers from their website for the Charlotte Street (No. 32, W1T 2NQ) branch Mon – Thurs and the Crispy Duck Pancakes are sensational. London Bridge branch also has awesome view of the tower bridge but you can’t use the voucher there

Atariya – Sushi in Ealing Common (opposite tube entrance) – bit of a trek but well worth it, they are fish wholesalers also so it is super fresh and they make up your order right in front of you – prices are good too

Carmen in Clapham Common (next to tube entrance) – Spanish tapas, the beef filled red capsicum and the marinated anchovies are great

Kettner’s in Soho (29 Romilly Street W1D 5HP) – divine Sunday roast and PERFECT bloody mary’s to go with it

Abeno Too in Covent Garden (17-19 Great Newport Street WC2H 7JE) – Japanese pancakes that they cook on a hotplate at your table – you can choose what types of deliciousness that you want to include inside them

Office with a different view



View from the building - London Eye, Big Ben and the Thames

I am very grateful to be employed again. It may be for a giant multinational oil company, which I guess I might be against if I thought about it, but beggars can not be choosers.



There are some really cool things - the view from my 7th floor office window is the London Eye and the Thames and Big Ben is around the other side - I definately feel like I am working in London now!




The building has its own gym, so I can avoid the peak hour tube (people said it was bad, and they were not exaggerating) and that is enough motiviation to get me out of bed and on the treadmill. They also have free pilates, pump and yoga classes at lunchtime.

View from my floor - London Eye and the Thames

It has its own restaurant - I can go into the 2nd floor bistro and get a number of things - baked potatoes with fillings, freshly grilled STEAK for £4.80, salmon fillets, vegetables, a massive make your own salad bar, desserts - all at really cheap prices. There is also a coffee shop, serving Costa coffee and a variety of sandwiches, porridge and snacks on the 10th floor. This is all paid for with a cashless chip card that you pre load online. So there is really no need to leave the building - I'm not sure if this is super convenient or a way to keep the workers in the building at all times.




You select the floor you want to go to on the keypad in the lift area and it tells you which lift number to go to. Get in the wrong one and who knows where you will end up - there are no buttons on the inside of the lift if you change your mind!

There are no communal basins in the toilets........each door opens to a little bathroom containing a toilet, wash basin, mirror and hand dryer all to yourself.

Every door is manned by a security guard who either glares at you as you come in or out, or greets you with a good morning / night ma'am.

Only two desks on my floor have landlines (luckily mine is one of them) - we are supposed to use the web based office communicator to make phone calls - but everyone is issued with a mobile phone.

We do not have bins at our desk, only a recycling box. There is a bin in the kitchen area if needed - really handy when you have an apple core or used tea bag and are busy at your desk.

There are no microwaves - reheating food is a health hazard (and why would you need to bring in your own food when you can buy it from the bistro downstairs and make the company more money?)

So it's quite different - mostly I like it and it is nice to be back in office clothes and high heels - but I can't wait to get back on the road again!

Unemployment

I never really thought I was lucky to always have a job. In fact, it was a bit of a pain - just a way to fund the lifestyle I want to live.

The last 4.5 weeks have taught me that in Australia, we are lucky to have such a good employment rate. Lucky to be able to choose which job we would like and to negotiate a salary that we are worth.

Here in the UK, I have really struggled to find a decent personal assistant job with a reasonable salary. The market is so competitive that employers will only consider you if you have worked as a personal assistant in their exact industry - so all my experience in senior roles with large companies means nothing - because I was employed in an accountancy firm, not an investment banking firm. I find that utterly ridiculous - and quite depressing.

I was lucky enough to find an ongoing role to start next week, so hopefully this is the last time I have to deal with the UK job market. I was put forward for the role at the rate I was told I should be earning, had my CV accepted at that rate, was told at both interviews with the company how high pressure and busy the role will be and then offered the role at £2ph lower. I have to "prove I'm worth" the extra £2 per hour. Even if I do it will still only be 2/3 of what I was earning in Australia.

I'm surprised at how worthless that kind of thing makes you feel on a personal level. I have realised how much having a good job and being respected for what I do means to me and I am now truly sympathetic to those that are unemployed and trying so hard to find a job. I'ts a horrible feeling.

London - back to reality (for now)

Sunset at the London Eye

Another overnight bus (hopefully the last!) from Edinburgh and I arrive in London on the 3rd of January with no home and no job. It's quite a horrible and daunting feeling and I am lucky to have some lovely friends volunteer their couches to me while I find my feet.

Searching for a flat was proving to be a bit of a drama - I had been emailing from Hamburg for over a week and found that most people were looking for a longer term lease than the 3 months I will be here for.

The first one I went to view was eye-opening..........so much built up dirt and grime, I was pretty sure you would have to wear Havi's to walk on the carpet or shower.

The second one was a live in landlord who told me that there would be "no doing the business" on her property.


The third one...... I would say the owner was a "collector"...........good luck finding the sink or lounge among the piles and piles of god knows what - although the collection of glittery, plastic flowers in the room for rent were quite lovely.

The fourth one had an interesting housemate - after arranging the viewing via email, I texted on the day to alter the time slightly which was agreed to - then took a phone call from her about an hour later and had to listen to a lecture on why I did not reply to her message (that came through while we were on the phone) and how could I not reply to someone I was supposed to be living with..........gosh.




Fifth time lucky - a nice room, good price, decent location and what seems to be a lovely, young Italian couple - fingers crossed they are what they seem!

Finally my own room!

So now to find a job.............I have completed the tedious and time consuming process of registering with 7 different temp agencies - who each insisted on me rewriting half my CV into THEIR template and sit THEIR Microsoft suite testing for up to 3 hours...........they will also insist on my referees (all employers over the past 5 years - no choosing who you provide) completing THEIR form.........I really hope I have references left at the end of it!



The salaries over here have also been quite a shock - very low compared to Australia with some roles only paying around £10 per hour. Hopefully something will come along soon so I can start to focus on my social life!