The food of London



Red velvet cupcake from the Southbank food markets



My short stay in London has come to an end, I have packed up my life into a suitcase once again, shipped two (very full - how did I manage to accumulate SO much stuff in 1 year!?) cartons home and I couldn't be happier.

Poster warning of injury on the tube




London didn't win me over. The tube - is it really necessary to push people out the way or risk having your arm crushed in a closing door when there will be another train in ONE MINUTE??? Rush hour just seems to make people lose their decency - a good friend of mine told me that one morning an elderly lady was getting out of her seat when the train movement made her fall. My friend watched in horror as 5 people scrambled for the elderly lady's seat, not one of them stopping to help her up or ask if she was OK. My friend actually asked these peole out loud what was was wrong with them, only to be met with blank stares.






Wicked at the Apollo Theatre

The London slang makes me cringe - INNIT just sums it up - learn to speak properly people, you just sound stupid.  I will not miss the crowds everywhere, ALL THE TIME. I will not miss the rare sunshine or the morgue like environment of the office where I spent long, uninspiring days.




Victoria & Albert Museum

I WILL miss seeing my lovley friends regularly, the local pub trivia every Tuesday, being able to go and see a theatre show or the ballet any night of the week, the fact that all the museum's are free and large glasses of wine (beware, 3 of these is a whole bottle!).

Singin in the Rain at the Palace Theatre

I will also miss the outstanding variety of fresh, tasty ready meals at Sainsbury's, the Friday lunchtime food markets at Southbank and the following amazing eateries that I have discovered or been introduced to over the past 3 months:

Dehesa in Soho (25 Ganton Street W1F 9BP) – Spanish tapas, get the pork belly and tortilla. The chargrilled bread is also delicious! The cheapest red wine by the glass (£4 for 175ml – not cheap but cheapest there) is also fantastic.

Cha Cha Moon in Soho (21 Ganton Street W1F 9BN) – Asian, they do a £10 starter & main lunch deal from 2-5pm – get the chicken gyoza (grilled dumplings) and Szechuan chicken soup or Sinapore noodles mmmmmmmmmmm

Dim T – you can print 2-4-1 main course vouchers from their website for the Charlotte Street (No. 32, W1T 2NQ) branch Mon – Thurs and the Crispy Duck Pancakes are sensational. London Bridge branch also has awesome view of the tower bridge but you can’t use the voucher there

Atariya – Sushi in Ealing Common (opposite tube entrance) – bit of a trek but well worth it, they are fish wholesalers also so it is super fresh and they make up your order right in front of you – prices are good too

Carmen in Clapham Common (next to tube entrance) – Spanish tapas, the beef filled red capsicum and the marinated anchovies are great

Kettner’s in Soho (29 Romilly Street W1D 5HP) – divine Sunday roast and PERFECT bloody mary’s to go with it

Abeno Too in Covent Garden (17-19 Great Newport Street WC2H 7JE) – Japanese pancakes that they cook on a hotplate at your table – you can choose what types of deliciousness that you want to include inside them

Office with a different view



View from the building - London Eye, Big Ben and the Thames

I am very grateful to be employed again. It may be for a giant multinational oil company, which I guess I might be against if I thought about it, but beggars can not be choosers.



There are some really cool things - the view from my 7th floor office window is the London Eye and the Thames and Big Ben is around the other side - I definately feel like I am working in London now!




The building has its own gym, so I can avoid the peak hour tube (people said it was bad, and they were not exaggerating) and that is enough motiviation to get me out of bed and on the treadmill. They also have free pilates, pump and yoga classes at lunchtime.

View from my floor - London Eye and the Thames

It has its own restaurant - I can go into the 2nd floor bistro and get a number of things - baked potatoes with fillings, freshly grilled STEAK for £4.80, salmon fillets, vegetables, a massive make your own salad bar, desserts - all at really cheap prices. There is also a coffee shop, serving Costa coffee and a variety of sandwiches, porridge and snacks on the 10th floor. This is all paid for with a cashless chip card that you pre load online. So there is really no need to leave the building - I'm not sure if this is super convenient or a way to keep the workers in the building at all times.




You select the floor you want to go to on the keypad in the lift area and it tells you which lift number to go to. Get in the wrong one and who knows where you will end up - there are no buttons on the inside of the lift if you change your mind!

There are no communal basins in the toilets........each door opens to a little bathroom containing a toilet, wash basin, mirror and hand dryer all to yourself.

Every door is manned by a security guard who either glares at you as you come in or out, or greets you with a good morning / night ma'am.

Only two desks on my floor have landlines (luckily mine is one of them) - we are supposed to use the web based office communicator to make phone calls - but everyone is issued with a mobile phone.

We do not have bins at our desk, only a recycling box. There is a bin in the kitchen area if needed - really handy when you have an apple core or used tea bag and are busy at your desk.

There are no microwaves - reheating food is a health hazard (and why would you need to bring in your own food when you can buy it from the bistro downstairs and make the company more money?)

So it's quite different - mostly I like it and it is nice to be back in office clothes and high heels - but I can't wait to get back on the road again!

Unemployment

I never really thought I was lucky to always have a job. In fact, it was a bit of a pain - just a way to fund the lifestyle I want to live.

The last 4.5 weeks have taught me that in Australia, we are lucky to have such a good employment rate. Lucky to be able to choose which job we would like and to negotiate a salary that we are worth.

Here in the UK, I have really struggled to find a decent personal assistant job with a reasonable salary. The market is so competitive that employers will only consider you if you have worked as a personal assistant in their exact industry - so all my experience in senior roles with large companies means nothing - because I was employed in an accountancy firm, not an investment banking firm. I find that utterly ridiculous - and quite depressing.

I was lucky enough to find an ongoing role to start next week, so hopefully this is the last time I have to deal with the UK job market. I was put forward for the role at the rate I was told I should be earning, had my CV accepted at that rate, was told at both interviews with the company how high pressure and busy the role will be and then offered the role at £2ph lower. I have to "prove I'm worth" the extra £2 per hour. Even if I do it will still only be 2/3 of what I was earning in Australia.

I'm surprised at how worthless that kind of thing makes you feel on a personal level. I have realised how much having a good job and being respected for what I do means to me and I am now truly sympathetic to those that are unemployed and trying so hard to find a job. I'ts a horrible feeling.

London - back to reality (for now)

Sunset at the London Eye

Another overnight bus (hopefully the last!) from Edinburgh and I arrive in London on the 3rd of January with no home and no job. It's quite a horrible and daunting feeling and I am lucky to have some lovely friends volunteer their couches to me while I find my feet.

Searching for a flat was proving to be a bit of a drama - I had been emailing from Hamburg for over a week and found that most people were looking for a longer term lease than the 3 months I will be here for.

The first one I went to view was eye-opening..........so much built up dirt and grime, I was pretty sure you would have to wear Havi's to walk on the carpet or shower.

The second one was a live in landlord who told me that there would be "no doing the business" on her property.


The third one...... I would say the owner was a "collector"...........good luck finding the sink or lounge among the piles and piles of god knows what - although the collection of glittery, plastic flowers in the room for rent were quite lovely.

The fourth one had an interesting housemate - after arranging the viewing via email, I texted on the day to alter the time slightly which was agreed to - then took a phone call from her about an hour later and had to listen to a lecture on why I did not reply to her message (that came through while we were on the phone) and how could I not reply to someone I was supposed to be living with..........gosh.




Fifth time lucky - a nice room, good price, decent location and what seems to be a lovely, young Italian couple - fingers crossed they are what they seem!

Finally my own room!

So now to find a job.............I have completed the tedious and time consuming process of registering with 7 different temp agencies - who each insisted on me rewriting half my CV into THEIR template and sit THEIR Microsoft suite testing for up to 3 hours...........they will also insist on my referees (all employers over the past 5 years - no choosing who you provide) completing THEIR form.........I really hope I have references left at the end of it!



The salaries over here have also been quite a shock - very low compared to Australia with some roles only paying around £10 per hour. Hopefully something will come along soon so I can start to focus on my social life!

I'm dreaming of a............non-white christmas?

Christmas in Germany is traditionally celebrated on christmas eve and it is white with piles of snow everywhere. Not this year! We had plus 10 degrees and the only thing coming from the sky was light rain.
We had a lovely christmas eve dinner with Maren's family, complete with lots of food (leberkase - like a meatloaf, cooked ham and potato salad AND the chocolate mousse and green and red jelly THAT I MADE - yes that's right people, I COOKED), lots of wine, presents and crazy kids running round leaving wrapping paper and toys all over.

Christmas day is known as the "first christmas day" and boxing day is known as the "second christmas day". So ultimately that is three days of eating, drinking and socialising - these people know how to do it! Then it is goodbye to the christmas markets - another 11 months until gluhwein and pfaffengluck make their much anticipated reappearance!
Then it was another overnight bus - this time a 4 hour train to Cologne, a 14 hour bus ride across to London (complete with a middle of the night ferry trip from Calais) and getting dropped off at 4.45am in the backstreets behind Victoria Coach Station with 2 suitcases.

Edinburgh Christmas markets

Torch ceremony

Next day straight off again up to Edinburgh for Hogmanay - the New Year celebrations. We stayed at an amazing luxury apartment in a cobblestoned street about 10 minutes walk (uphill - they love their hills in Edinburgh) from the main shopping street.

On the 30th we joined in a torch light parade from the Old Town up to the Castle - thousands of people streched out for kilometres walking along and carrying flaming torches and finished off with a fireworks display - pretty spectacular.

Edinburgh Castle

Apartment street - Circus Lane

The 31st was the big Hogmanay street party - stages with concerts, bring your own alcohol, portable toilets (nearly got crushed in a crowd surge at the 11.30pm line up - then when i finally got to a loo it was almost overflowing - fabulous) and people EVERYWHERE.

NYE fireworks

Fantastic fireworks display at midnight with a perfect view from the street up to the Castle with the fireworks exploding over the top - definately the highlight of the night.

AND STILL NO SNOW!!!

Hamburg in a hostel

St Nikolai Kirche

Surprisingly the 14 hour bus trip from Krakow went rather quickly and we arrive at our hostel on Hamburg's famous Reeperbahn at around 7am. Luckily the (rather drunk) guy at reception lets us check in and after having to swap rooms (the first door wouldn't open which he was rather puzzled about) we get a quick nap before heading to the main square for a free walking tour.

Chile Haus

It was quite good - covered a lot of history of the harbour and shipping, architecture and the smaller churches including St Nikolai kirche, which was bombed in WW2 and has been left in its destroyed state as a monument.

Men's premier league handball

After the first (of many) Pfaffengluck (a herbed damper like bread with melted cheese, ham and sour cream on top) we head to the O2 Arena for the men's premier league handball. It's a great game, very fast and physical and after watching Maren play quite a few times I even sort of understand the rules.

The flying sleigh

Next day we stop past der Michel (which is closed for Sunday service) and take a quick look inside the Rathaus (town hall) and wander through the christmas markets - gluhwein, carols, wooden decorations and candles as far as the eye can see. There is even a mechanical sleigh and reindeer suspended above the market that "flys" from one end to the other twice a day - complete with a real life santa and angel inside!

Prost! Another gluhwein..........

Then to my favourite - the ice hockey! Unfortunately I have managed to get us tickets right next to the Berlin cheer squad (and they win) but is still an awesome game - super fast and hockey sticks flying and players getting slammed into the plexi glass and you get cup holders for your 1/2 litre of beer that a guy with a mini keg on his back comes to your seat and pours you a new one for only 4 euros. WIN!!



A look at the alternative St Pauli christmas markets and another room change at the hostel (this time the door wouldn't lock), then we brave the Pulverfass show - boys pretending to be girls pretending to be boys and some very nice male strippers too - something for everyone! A great show (would be even funnier if I understand all the words I'm sure) but a little bit ruined by the minimum 20euro spend and the fact they were charging 19,50 for a cocktail. OUCH!!

Rathaus Chistmas

Last day and we head to the harbour to take a look at Miniature World (my third time this year! but it is great, especially now the airport is up and running) and then catch the number 62 ferry that does a loop of the harbour included in your daily metro ticket which saves the 20euros the harbour trip boats charge!

Hamburg Christmas markets

Then it's time to say goodbye to Ola after 2 weeks together and a brilliant trip (I'm glad I just have to get the train to Maren's and not the overnight bus to Krakow)

NOW what?!

Poland and Pierogi

Krakow - Old Town Square at sunset

First pierogi deliciousness

We arrive around 9pm and I am introduced to pierogi – delicious little boiled dumplings with various fillings – Ola recommends cottage cheese and potato and I am not disappointed. I could live on these things! AND I can afford them, Krakow is ridiculously cheap – a plate of pierogi is less than 3 euros. We take a short walk to the Old Town Main Square, the impressive St Mary’s Basilica (where a bugle player plays the same tune 4 times – once in each direction – every hour), Cloth Hall and Town Hall Tower. Ola’s family is from here and I can hear her love for the city in every word she says
 

Krakow - St Mary's Bascilica

Krakow - Nativity Scene comp.

The next day we walk around the Old Town again, eat some more pierogi (cabbage and mushroom this time) and beetroot soup and check out the Nativity Scene exhibition. People take all year to build these scenes from all types of material – foil, lace, paper toll, even dried food – and some have moving parts. They are pretty special

View over Tatra mountains

Fried sheeps cheese with cranberry

Day 2 we head out to Zakopane, a small town in the Tatra Mountains. It’s really pretty and surprisingly warm for this time of year – much of the snow on the ground has melted and it is around 7 degrees. We walk through the markets and take the funicular up for some spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Then it’s time for food – we have potato pancakes with garlic butter, bacon and sheeps cheese, bread with lard and bacon and fried sheeps cheese with cranberry jam. All fantastic.

Stroller sleighs in Zakopane

Back in Krakow we head to a piano concert of Chopin music – the pianist is very young but extremely talented and the music is just beautiful. Then to a cute little vodka bar (complete with a cute and friendly bartender) for “one” shot. We try cherry, vanilla, hazelnut and honey vodkas and a shot with bison grass vodka, apple juice and cinnamon. I sleep very well despite being woken up at 2am with the couple next door very loudly getting it on




Day 3 I visit Auschwitz and Birkenau. It has taken me this long to build up the courage to visit a concentration camp and it is very confronting. I still can’t comprehend it, even after actually being in the buildings where so many atrocities were committed. I just can’t understand how humans could do such things to each other.

The Last Supper..........in salt

Later that day I join a tour to the Wielicza Salt Mines. After walking down nearly 400 steps we walk through passageways that are hundreds of years old and see the amazing salt sculptures – there are statues, chandeliers and chapels all made out of salt. In the largest chamber, a huge room featuring 3 chandeliers and a light show, there are sculptures on the wall detailing Jesus Christ’s life – including a remake of the famous Da Vinci painting, The Last Supper. There is also a sculpture of the Polish hero, Pope John Paul II and even the tiles on the floor are made of salt. Well worth a visit

Trabants

Last day and we head out on a Trabant Communist Tour. The Trabant was a car very popular in the 1950’s at the start of the Communist era and built out of fibreglass. It’s quite small and noisy and when I squeeze into the back I find out that they only believe in seatbelts for the front seats – which is apparently fine in crazy driver Poland.

Vodka shots and pickles

We head out past Ola’s auntie’s apartment and stop at a restaurant where her mum and dad used to go on dates. It is original décor from the 1950’s and they still hold dances here on Friday nights. We get a very interesting historical lesson on the creation of the Communist estate and the propaganda that went along with it. Then back in the car and off to view a Communist apartment – everyone was given the same. Here we try vodka shots out of fish shaped shot glasses and pickles. Then we head to a deserted road where we get to try driving the Trabant – first time driving in 9 months and it’s a column shift manual, on the wrong side of the road, after 2 shots of vodka. Safety first in Eastern Europe!

Sure I can drive

We then visit a milk bar – a worker’s canteen where traditional food is sold at government subsidised prices – I try cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and mincemeat with a creamy mushroom sauce – not bad (but nothing beats pierogi). Great tour although I ensure I write “seatbelts” on my feedback form suggestions.

Ginger hot chocolate and chilli praline

We walk past Krakow castle and down the oldest street in the city – many of the cobblestones are still originals from the 13^th century - and head to Ola’s favourite café where I have ginger hot chocolate and a chilli praline. Then it’s time to head to the bus station for our 14 hour overnighter to Hamburg (yuck).